The zoom barrel is next up. Nikon has not debuted a new lens mount since the F mount that routine users of the Nikon D series are accustomed to. As I noted in my last post, I’ve recently bought a Nikon DSLR camera, which has sparked my interest in the interchangeable lenses. Nikkor lenses are born from a tradition of elite craftsmanship and a pursuit of optical perfection more than 80 years in the making. With the PCB off, we can see there are shims under the rear group (they’re the thin brass line). I’ve gotten lucky on a couple, but even broken these lenses can still go for almost 50% of their original value, depending on the lense. After lunch, we did a reverse and decided to take out the front extending barrel. The listed reason for the damage was a drop. I mean, it got in there somehow, and somehow wasn’t through the back.). Disassembly to this point just for some cleaning would not be recommended. This exposes a couple tabs, which when pulled outward, allow the front lens assembly to be rotated clockwise off of the inner lens barrel. Here it was lunch break, and we weren’t even halfway done with disassembly. Things. Or, with other designs, the entrance pupil remains constant but as the focal length changes the f/number calculation changes. (Huge usually equals about 0.1mm to 0.2mm; but lenses, as we learned in grade school, make things look bigger.) This seems like a good next step. In my work I try to describe the function of the spring: tension vs compression. And shallower wells in the rear group. Here’s a good shot of the adjustable collar for the mechanical aperture function (top center). Nobody wears those in real life either. Next, looking back at the other side of the lens, we’ll remove the two metal guides that are attached at the back of the lens and follow the inner lense down inside. This is the electrical interface to the camera. At the end of the article, Roger Cicala said the Nikon Z7 “is a damn well-built camera, the best built mirrorless full-frame camera we’ve taken apart.” The rear view of the assembly shows just the backplate and the four screws holding it together. We untaped it where we could reach it, but it was still taped down somewhere underneath that ring. If you compare this to the PCB in the Canon RF 70-200 f/2.8 you’ll probably notice there’s just less stuff on the Nikon PCB. Turning the lens a bit, you can see the zoom position sensor (Nikon has finally moved on from metal brushes) and one of the zoom ring keys (small slotted screw with white nylon collar) that attach the zoom ring to the cam barrel. Lens Format. The posts removed quickly. The Nikon 35-105mm f/3.5-4.5D AF push-pull zoom is a great FX lens that works perfectly on all FX digital and 35mm Nikons.. We’re like the Harlem Globetrotters of lens disassembly. Of course, there is a good, foamed weather seal at each barrel joint. Removing four more screws and one flex lets us remove the rear outer barrel. Here’s a look from inside at the travel of the focusing group. While using glue could be considered the first mistake, as the plastic rings are very cheap to acquire, I feel their second and fatal mistake may have been an simple one. Jan 15, 2020. I don’t have enough knowledge to comment other than the vague general understanding that EM is probably the fastest and stepper perhaps more accurate. The Not Very Long Awaited Teardown of the Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS . Nikon, do something about the felt you line the lens hoods with. Each of three long screws is removed. A fixed aperture zoom has to change the absolute aperture size as the focal length changes. Thankfully, the whole thing comes off as one piece, no gears spilling all over the place, which was a nice surprise. Some zoom lenses are designed so that the zoom operation moves elements in front of the physical aperture. The highest attention to detail is paid to every aspect of every lens that bears the name Nikkor. Before we start, a quick break to do some QA bitching. It’s like poking an open wound . Roger and Aaron at Lensrentals are back again with another lens teardown; this time, the Nikkor AF-S 120–300mm F2.8 FL ED SR VR lens.. Along with the Df, Nikon released a new version of the 50mm f/1.8G AF-S lens as the kit lens. Let's see what it's got. It will not be cheap. There doesn’t seem to be any reason to further deconstruct this part. Today’s specimen is a an AF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 VR lens. But they do look all professional, don’t they? Three screws hold it to the lens, and two more hold the connector in place. At the end of the article, Roger Cicala said the Nikon Z7 “is a damn well-built camera, the best built mirrorless full-frame camera we’ve taken apart.”. So I’m starting with the basic lenses, the common ones that are around the lower end and often come with the camera bundles. After the second one was removed, it became apparent there was some mysterious force pushing the element up. Scott Adams would describe that as your having added an element to your “talent stack” which is the essence of different fields of expertise “coming in handy”. First, a bit of post-mortem on the part, and where the original owner messed up the repair. But I promise, you’ll see by the end of this; lens disassembly is a complicated profession. At 70mm f/2.8 requires a 25mm aperture, at 24mm f/2.8 requires an 8.6mm aperture. You can’t see it from the image, but the post is eccentric, it would be adjusted during assembly to fine-tune the aperture size accurately. The springs sit about 1/3 of their length in fairly deep wells in the back of the focusing element. They went even further, building in nice channels for the flexes and thoroughly taping each flex in its proper place. Always be careful with the lens elements. I have seen many videos on sensor cleaning, but of course suspect few people do more than give them a passing blow. As you can see in the images below, as you move the zoom back from 70mm, the secondary aperture closes. 8^), McMaster-Carr calls them extension springs, so that’s as good an authoritative source as exists! Going back to the optical barrel, we get to see something we don’t see this well very often – the working of a secondary aperture. We’ll have to remove these to allow the inner assembly to come free. My comment was more in jest than an actual suggestion. Your email address will not be published. The Nikon F-mount is a type of interchangeable lens mount developed by Nikon for its 35mm format single-lens reflex cameras.The F-mount was first introduced on the Nikon F camera in 1958, and features a three-lug bayonet mount with a 44 mm throat and a flange to focal plane distance of 46.5 mm. There are 3 ICs on board, a custom Nikon branded BGA part (EI-134 108 H25), a larger quad flat pack (D70F3731GC V850ES/KG 1052EE247), and a small SOIC on the front (HC 4050A 049). The taping of every possible point that Loctite or anything else could get in the lens does, too. . Two screws hold that on, but before you remove that, there is also a silver tab holding some wiper arms, which is part of the zoom position sensor. We even removed the rubber and the underlying shield tape to see if we could get a look from the other side. Inside, you can again see that yellow tape covering the internal opening of all the screw holes. While no reason is needed to take apart another lens to see what goodies lurk within, Roger specifically notes he chose this lens because he wanted to see if the new modern design of Nikon’s Z-mount lenses is being carried over to newer F-mount lenses as well. Since I’m this far, I’m going to go ahead and keep disassembly. It’s for what we refer to as FELD (First Expensive Lens is Dusty) syndrome. You’re forgetting the part where the difference in magnification between the physical aperture and the front of the lens affects the size of the entrance pupil. But the lens is well-engineered, and I see no other weak points to make me think it will be anything less than reliable. One of those flexes (the one sticking up on the left) runs down to the display unit in this barrel. I’ve been to a few dozen factory and authorized repair centers. We can also see the optical sensor that is activated when you turn the control ring. Spoiler alert: we don’t find much else to complain about in this lens. If all of the change in magnification when a lens is zoomed occurs in front of the physical diaphragm, no change in absolute aperture diameter is required. While I really wanted to take a look at the vibration reduction mechanism which appears to be in the remaining assembly, I don’t seem any way to effectively continue a non-destructive tear down. This appears to be attached by 3 sliver screws along its perimeter. This barrel fits between the inner barrel and the lens assembly and helps translate the rotation of the zoom ring into linear motion of the inner lens. For a couple of days. needed for f/2.8 at 24mm focal length. Avoiding the adjustable collar was high on our list of goals, and there seemed to be a set of 6 screws and collars that would let us take something out of the front. Very nicely done. Film SLR Cameras Since 1948, our film cameras have been loved by photographers around the globe. With the barrel off, we can now see those screws and collars we removed insert into nice brass inserts, no screwing into the plastic. The answer to ‘how did a huge spec get in there’ is generally Loctite. I don’t know. This part is located in the center of the mount ring and I think serves as a dust cover, or possibly just aestetics to the rear of the lens. Now there will be a 20-minute break while Aaron replaced collars while holding the group, so it didn’t fall forward and bang into stuff. (I read this article about being a better writer, and it said to use foreshadowing. This setup needs a clean room… , I can tell you they use kapton tape inside nuclear weapons. With these guides out, ensure that the metal guides and attached flat flex cables are free, because we will have to rotate the in between barrel. Nano Crystal Coat. The helical barrel should slide off the inner lens. By Roger Cicala. 24.3 megapixel FX full-frame CMOS sensor. He’s never seen a clean room either. I’ll take a moment to discuss that pretty yellow tape we’ve seen scattered about the lens. I’ll have to admit I was stuck for a bit at this point. Lensrentals cracked open the brand new $9,500 AF-S NIKKOR 120-300mm f/2.8E FL ED SR VR lens this week, putting the behemoth of a zoom lens to the test. The AutoFocus comes out as a single piece, with the associated controller, piezoelectric motor and gear assembly. ... Nikon 120-300mm f/2.8 Teardown … Notably, trying to find cheap lenses on EBay and repairing them. We were concerned that streak was about to end, but it was getting close to lunchtime, and we were hungry. A small metal tab that appears to limit the twist of the zoom barrel. Step 1 Nikon D600 Teardown . But Nikon lenses have always been a bit ‘old fashioned’ and different from other SLR lenses, so we weren’t sure what to expect. Note the rear element poking out in the image below, and the distance the rear element cam screw has traveled compared to the image above. Removing these proved to be difficult, as the screws were very tight. At this point the CPU is removed, but the AF controller is still attached to the AF motor. December 26, 2015 – 11:36 pm; Posted in Uncategorized; Introduction. Once that’s done, we went back around to the front. A cleanroom that isn’t maintained extremely rigorously is not of very much use. After thous are removed, the front housing is almost free, as there is a silver tab holding it in, that appears to serve as a limit for the zoom twist. (If you haven’t done a reassembly, I should mention that most pieces will fit in any of 3 different rotations. Four years ago, Sony fired the first shot of this battle with the A7 and continued to release one iteration after another, each improving on the last, and did so completely unanswered by the competition until August 23rd of this year when Nikon announced the Z7 and the Z6. Another nice touch is Nikon has put line-up markings throughout the lens so that during reassembly, you know precisely how round pieces are supposed to line up. If you notice what Aaron is holding in his right hand below, it’s one piece. These lenses are only compatible with 1-mount cameras. There is also a second set of screws holding the front barrel on to the inner assemblies. The zoom ring assembly also contains the focus position sensor and the sliding ring used to connect the autofocus motor to the focus ring. From the depths of the ocean to the furthest reaches of space, Nikkor has always been the eyes of Nikon. So thanks. 2 sept. 2013 - The website ifixit.com published their detailed instructions and pictures on how to teardown a Nikon D600 camera. Bad things might happen. This part forms the main inner frame. Since each of these two parts has it’s own cams (the forceps are in the forward cam hole) we aren’t certain if the spring is there to provide better feel during zooming (unlikely), to provide pull on the mechanical aperture when un-zooming (possible), or for some reason we don’t understand (almost certainly). Note, that small amounts of dirt, residue, and dust typically will not affect the quality of the pictures you take. Picking up where the original owner left off, after remove the rear mount ring and associated parts (and pretending the connector was still attached), the next part to remove is the AutoFocus and Vibration Reduction switch assembly. Look at this engineering right here: neat flexes running directly where they’re heading placed in recessed channels in the barrel and thoroughly taped in place. That was not well thought out; those are common repairs, and they’re going to be pricey on this lens. ), But I digress. Expert news, reviews and videos of the latest digital cameras, lenses, accessories, and phones. By Roger Cicala. So basically, you have to remove most of the front barrel hardware to take off the focus ring and rear barrel. There you go, I foreshadowed the hell out of that, didn’t I? We’ll look fondly back on this step, because ‘slides right off’ isn’t going to happen much more. Sorry for my grumpy fit. This isn’t Aaron’s first rodeo, and he kept a good grip on the rear element as he removed the final post. The "new" lens sports only two real changes, neither of them useful: you get some trim that is nostalgic (but not a totally nostalgic aperture ring ;~), and the focus ring has been adjusted to … This is the point in the teardown when stuff just starts coming out of the device left and right. On the backside is a small cam that inserts into a barrel slot. Nikon Z6 teardown shows that it’s just as solid and well-built as the Z7 EOS R6 teardown reveals the timer chip that’s holding the camera back The first teaser video for Nikon mirrorless camera has been published This is how an insider describes the back of Nikon mirrorless camera body As I mentioned earlier, I am not a patient man. As you can probably tell from our struggles doing this disassembly, the Nikon Z lenses are very different than their legacy lenses. With the bayonet off, we see the PCB, and it’s flex connections. ARRI put out a PR video not long ago of the clean room they do lens repair in, and the technicians are not wearing covers for their beards. When these screws are removed, there are small cylinders that will pull out. It’s held by 3 screws in the mount ring. Plus the other side of that lense element is dirty and dusty. When the screws are removed the lens should just pop off. Stay up on all things Nikon. This certainly seems odd to me, but hey, it must work. With the hardware out, the zoom ring slides right off. For consumer camera lenses, a clean room is really not very necessary, and it’s easy to blow $10k/mo maintaining one properly. The inner barrel is now empty, other than a few cams and the various flexes passing hither and yon. Despite all this, the bottom line is 45 minutes later, we still hadn’t gotten the display barrel off and couldn’t see where the flex was stuck. This part manages the mechanical interface to the camera body for control of the lens aperture. The helical grove barrel rotates inside this part and the inner lense moves inside of that. Thanks a lot! Your email address will not be published. This contains all of the optical elements other than the front, the focusing motors, aperture assembly, and of course, the cams and barrels for the zoom elements. It has a very nice touch; the zero position is marked on it. I’ve been asking for that for years, and Nikon delivered. Rotating the zoom barrel moves the cam up and down, and the sensor reads that position. It would be a shame if, having gotten what I wanted, it ended up biting me in the ax, wouldn’t it? As I noted in my last post, I’ve recently bought a Nikon DSLR camera, which has sparked my interest in the interchangeable lenses. The next step is to unhook the flexes and sensors at this level. This should prevent any barrel sag in the extended position. I’ll be reusing the screw card I made in my last repair (they did include all the screws in the shipment!). This is why we don’t do videos of teardowns; they’d be incredibly dull. There are three spots on the front of the assembly where it will have to align to slide the inner parts out. Lets start with the parts that came in the box, since these are already off the lense. This is the main controller for the lense. Required fields are marked *, Adventures in Programming and Electronics. Aaron could feel the tug when he started to pull up the barrel. The ring came off with no damage to the flex, and now we could see why it stuck; we could free up the part that went straight down, but after we lost sight of it, the flex had two right-angle turns, both of which were taped down. This assembly is basically two parts with three compression springs pulling the aperture assembly (in the front) towards the zoom element (in the rear). I see two screws that seem to be holding the assembly around the motor together, so I will remove those. The triangle just above the screw is another lineup marker. We immediately saw the reason for this; the rear baffle has an inner lip that sits tight against the rear barrel. Because on April 10th I bought a Nikon D3100, not knowing about the new D5100. Again now the inner lense is held into the inner helical barrel by three guides that are screwed in. The ring fits into a grove on the inside of the mount ring and the spring also anchors to the mount ring, providing a return mechanism. I’m going to continue by removing the two circuit boards. Some new coatings are used on these elements, so we’re avoiding touching; some coatings are more delicate than others. We’re used to Nikon lenses having secondary circuit boards deeper in the lens and thought that was why. This is the main aperture and a combination electrical/mechanical device. You could theoretically reassemble in a clean room and they’d be nearly dust free. Ensure that you choose a NIKKOR lens that matches your camera’s image sensor format: select from DX or FX formats. If the connector was still attached via its screws to the mount ring, they may have lifted the lens by the rear housing and, in a mear moment, the lens fell apart and the weight of the lense broke the wire and the flat flex. The design is logical and clean; the difficulties in the tear-down were ours. Pictures are helpful for reassembly, as the design is starting to get a bit ‘busy’. The hardware isn’t as robust as Canon’s, but certainly seems adequate for the job. As far as I know, these are some type of shim devices to manage how far the mount ring sticks out. The Nikon Z6 Disassembly and Teardown Nearly two months ago, we dove into the Nikon Z7 and showed you what was happing inside all the way down to the sensor. I recieved the item still in it’s dissasembled state. The flat flex connector for the main connector is a simple push/pull type without a lock, so you can just slide it out. Next I’ll remove the rear most lense element. This renders the cleanroom an expensive waste of time, as the largest source of contamination is not mitigated. On Nikon lenses, because we can’t buy parts, tearing a flex is very bad. Going in from the back, we start by removing the usual three tiny screws that hold the rear baffle in place. This could be the only lens you every need, and for $75 used you can't go wrong, although you have a huge choice of new and used FX lenses for Nikon SLRs at every price.. You know shit’s getting real when Aaron puts on gloves. But you know what I’ve never seen? These are circular, so they’re for proper spacing, not tilt. Nikon Lens Teardown. Many of you know my attention span is limited, so I suggested we inject alcohol into that area to loosen the adhesive and then pull the ring off, or let her rip, whichever happened. Now that we know our way around, disassembly won’t be bad at all. Someone’s been watching too many videos where the techs where those white cotton gloves Our brand new Nikon Z7 full frame mirrorless camera arrived at the office this week, and we immediately got down to business. Very thorough. You could see the weather sealing in the above image, but this one also shows the ESD (electrostatic discharge) cushions that are under this ring. Then a puller is used to remove each collar. Now, here’s the bad news. This part attaches to the central lens assembly and provides helical tracks to translate the rotation of the autofocus ring to linear motion of the front lens assembly. (We couldn’t see exactly what was going to come out at this point, but we were comfortable something would. 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